Hanging Out at Hibernian

I was lucky enough to have been brought up in a home where I was taught the virtues of fairness, equality and inclusion. My parents abhorred racism and always made it clear that a gay lifestyle was perfectly normal. Just observing them together growing up was enough to make me realise that men & women were equal. The result of being raised this way was that I developed without any prejudices, well there is one exception: I was taught to hate the Hibees.

My Dad, as I have stated before, was a Jambo and a pretty ardent one when I was a lad in the eighties. Fellow Edinburgh side Hibernian were therefore ‘the enemy’; villains & cheats on the field with violent, lowlife supporters following them. While he cheered a win for Hearts he’d always wait for the Hibs score so he could cheer again in the event of a defeat. When I said to my Mum recently I was planning a trip to Easter Road she instantly replied that “Your Faither will be turning in his grave.”

Of course as a sensible adult I know that Hibernian Football Club are no more or less villainous than any other team, rather it is a proud side with a large, loyal and diverse fan base. The way I was raised however still gives me awkward feelings about the Hibees, here are some examples: Firstly I have a huge fitba shirt collection but I’ve never worn one that’s green with white sleeves. If I see them on the end of a drubbing it can still makes me smile. I have never been able to enjoy The Proclaimers and, even in his Blue Peter days, I felt there was something fishy about that John Leslie. Today however I hope that by immersing myself in all things Hibernian my awkwardness will be washed away, that this Sunday afternoon may ‘clear my blindness’ as they Reid twins might say.

Now despite any childhood indoctrination, it would be impossible for me to look at the history of Hibernian Football Club and not conclude that they have almost constantly been a big team in the Scottish game. From their formation by Irish immigrants in 1875 they have built up a solid record of domestic success and shown a good European pedigree. The highest the club rose was in the late forties and early fifties when a group of players, known now as The Famous Five, propelled the Hibees to three of their four league titles in a span of just four years. Gordon Smith, Bobby Johnstone, Lawrie Reilly, Eddie Turnbull and Willie Ormond are now immortalised with the North stand at Easter Road named in their honour.

As for continental competition, Hibernian will forever be known as the first British side to enter the European Cup in 1955. They did well too, reaching the semi-final stage before falling to French aces Stade Rheims. In the sixties and seventies Hibs were almost ever present in the Fairs Cup and it’s successor, the UEFA Cup, claiming some major scalps along the way. Let the record books say that the Hibees got the better of mighty Barcelona in 1960/61, Porto in ’67/68 and Sporting Lisbon in ’72/73. The brief arrival of iconic figure George Best in 1979 coincidentally marked the end of regular European football for the green half of Edinburgh, only two more continental campaigns occurred by century’s end. The 21st century has been kinder thus far however, with six European qualifications to date.

Only recently did Hibernian finally manage to shake off the the curse they had in the Scottish Cup. Since winning it in 1902, for the second time, they failed to win it again despite making it to another ten finals. Three League Cups did manage to find their way to Easter Road over the decades before the big one was finally held aloft in May of 2016, a gap of 114 years. Never has ‘Sunshine on Leith’ been sung more passionately and emotionally than that day at Hampden.

Right, you have heard about my history with Hibs and learned about the saga of the club itself, time to get on with the day. For once I hope Dad ain’t looking down on me.

Pre-match Pints

I forgot when I bought my ticket for today the the festival would be on and a busy train deposits me in a mobbed Edinburgh city centre. Twenty minutes later I’m away from the crowds, walking along a quiet Easter Road just before noon and headed to my first venue the Hibernian Supporters Association Social Club. Access prior to games is for members only but feeling it was an essential place to visit I arranged entry via social media last week. I’m glad I did as this place was like an alcohol licensed Hibee museum bedecked in a vast array of priceless artifacts; not just signed strips but ones from major games, same for programmes and even a framed cup final blazer. As the place starts to fill I meet Tom (who had organised my access in here) and we join two auld supporters who have followed the Hibees for millennia. We chat about hope for the season, the love for the manager, the 2016 cup final and how to deal with Hearts supporting neighbours. Real pleasure to meet true Hibs fans in the quintessential Hibernian bar.

The next place is the comically named Iona Bar, much simpler and less Hibs orientated than the social club but clean, friendly and buzzing with fans of all ages (including a baby asleep in their pram ahead of his/her first ever game). The star of the show is the fantastic woman behind the bar who is warm & welcoming to strangers like myself but knows her regulars like the back of her hand. She can pour three pints in a single motion too. One drink told me it would be my local if I lived in the area, having a second was an easy choice.

I left Easter Road and headed towards Leith Walk as I’d been informed pubs around the ground got too busy close to kick off. En route an unusual bar caught my eye with it’s quirkiness and I popped in, I’ve been to many fitba pubs in my travels but this was my first cycling pub. The Tourmalet is covered in bicycling memorabilia and brightly painted in a shade that makes you feel like you are inside a giant yellow jersey. The other notable item of décor is a huge poster for a Robert Shaw b-movie entitled “A Town Called Bastard”, wonder if it is on Netflix or Amazon Prime?

On Leith Walk itself I enter the very popular Hibernian bar The Harp & Castle. It is hoaching with green and white clad fans, again of all ages, watching the Aberdeen vs Rangers game from Pittodrie. Busy yes, but plenty efficient bar staff on to get served quickly: house whisky and Diet Coke is a decent (by capital standards) £2.80. I have a few, watch the game and engage in a bit of banter with two friendly chaps by the bar. I find it interesting to see how relaxed and positive Hibs fans are, here and in the other bars I’ve visited. They may be the friendliest fans I’ve encountered on my travels, far removed from the way they were portrayed in my youth.

The Ground

Easter Road Stadium is exactly where it should be, smack bang in the centre of the community where the club was born. It emerges, massive, behind a church at the end streets of old stone terraced houses. It looks very impressive and continues to impress on the inside. I’m in the two tiered West Stand with matching stands behind each goal. Across from me is a vast single tier, a wall of support when filled that looks bloody good, although the tunnels out are all at the bottom and I wouldn’t fancy the hike to a seat at the top. A braw big crowd of seventeen thousand plus generates a great atmosphere as the game, the season is about to begin. I note that there are a large amount of female fans in attendance, the result of having a successful SWPL squad perhaps? Or is it the other way around?

The Game

Hibernian kick off the season against Motherwell and in short they dominated from start to finish. They seem a well organised and hungry side who pressure the visitors from the start. Motherwell are no slouches but Hibs comfortably control the game with Stevie Mallon putting away a perfect free kick at the half hour mark and Oli Shaw doubling the lead on the stroke of half time. By the break I had seen enough to know the result was not in doubt but Hibernian kept going for more in the second half and Martin Boyle ended ensured the win on the fifty first minute with a great solo strike. Things slowed down after that, but Hibs still fought hard for another goal and the clean sheet which is very commendable. Three nil to the Hibees in the end, great performance and a very promising start to the league campaign.

In terms of individual performances I was impressed by cup winning captain David Gray, who provided leadership and controlled the right flank before being subbed as the job was done. Efe Ambrose was often treated as a bit of a joke while at Celtic but I thought he put on a great display at right back today, Lennon must have the ability to get the best out of the big Nigerian. Martin Boyle was my Man of the Match (and not because I taught him in secondary school back when I lived in Aberdeen), He covered every blade of grass, got into space and was like a terrier endlessly chasing the ball. He got the goal he deserved and I’m proud to have observed him progress from booting a ball round the playground to having a pivotal role at a top flight club.

Aftermath

Sorry Dad you were wrong; Hibs are a great club with a fine stadium, friendly fans and a team that could really do something this season. I had a fantastic afternoon in Leith and found it to be a place filled with loads of great pubs and good people (a return visit is a must). On the pitch Hibernian made a very good impression, we all know that Celtic are winning the league again this season but don’t be surprised if the other side in green and white finish runners up behind them. I am glad to say that any lingering awkward feelings towards this club have disappeared, if you’ll excuse me I’m off to order a copy of Sunshine on Leith and couple of Irvine Welsh books.